R&SD Jewelry Mark

Q: I've been researching this mark and simply cannot find it anywhere. It's an Art Nouveau enamel and sterling silver necklace marked "R & SD" and "Sterling." Can you help me?

A: Although your pendant is in the Art Nouveau style, it was not made during the Art Nouveau period, from 1895 to 1905. Pieces marked "R & SD" are recent reproductions made in Thailand. Designs and colors used by this company are similar to jewelry made by Charmian Deacon, who in 1972, started making enamel and silver jewelry cast from pieces she found at London antique markets. Her jewelry was designed to sell at more affordable prices than original pieces. Sources say jewelry marked "R & SD" is not made with real enamel, but with a plastic resin material. You can test this with a hot pin. If the jewelry is enamel, the pin won't penetrate it. If it's resin, the pin will pierce it. We have also learned that some sellers have tried to obliterate the mark and sell the jewelry as "antique." Other sellers are honest and label the jewelry as new.

Trifari Jewelry

Q: I have a rhinestone dress clip marked "KTF." Can you tell me who made it and how old it is?

A: The KTF mark was used by Trifari, a company founded by Gustavo Trifari and Leo F. Krussman in New York City in 1918. Trifari was the designer and Krussman, the salesman. Carl Fishel joined the company in 1925 and it became Trifari, Krussman & Fishel—which explains the three-letter mark on your clip. The mark was used from 1925 until 1937. Trifari was later sold and resold several times. It became part of Liz Claiborne in 2000.

 

Ritz Pin

Q: I inherited this pin from my mother and would like to know more about it. It has a metal loop and a catch on the back and can be worn as a pendant as well as a pin. It’s marked “Ritz” and “Pewter.” Can you tell me how old it is and what it’s worth today?

A: Your pin was part of a 1975 special offer by cosmetics manufacturer Charles of the Ritz. The pin, a square metal “trinket box,” and a 6-ounce bottle of Liquid Revenescence sold for $8.75 with a $6 purchase of any Charles of the Ritz cosmetics product. The pin and box are lacquered and embossed with the original “Ritz Lady,” an Art Deco motif first used by the company in the 1920s. Charles of the Ritz was founded in 1919 by Charles Jundt, who operated a beauty salon at the Ritz Hotel in New York City. He began using the name “Charles of the Ritz” on his products in 1926. The company changed hands several times before being bought by Revlon in 1987. Charles of the Ritz products were no longer made after 2002. The pin shows up for sale today more often than the box. Value of your pin: $25 to $75.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kirks Folly Bracelet

Q: We recently found a gold and rhinestone bracelet that’s about 6 inches long. It has gold chain links on each side and palm trees decorated with small stones connecting the links. The palm trees face in two directions and are separated by four bands of larger rhinestones. The inscription on the back looks like “Kings” or “Kinks” above “Folly” or “Jolly.” Do you know of a maker with a similar name?

A: Your bracelet was made by Kirks Folly, a company that has been making “fantasy jewelry” since 1979. The company was founded in New York City by siblings Helen, Jennifer, Elizabeth, and George Kirk. It began as a home-based business after Jennifer persuaded a department store to sell their first product, Glitter Sticks–hair ornaments inspired by a pair of chopsticks that Helen decorated. The demand was so great that Elizabeth and George joined their sisters in the business. The company’s website says that the design themes range from “fantasy to romance to storybook legends.” Kirks Folly jewelry was offered on QVC for the first time in 1992. Kirks Folly jewelry is also sold through the Kirks Folly online store and in retail shops in the United States, England, and Italy. Older pieces like this bracelet sell for between $25 and $50.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bliss Brothers Co. Locket

Q: I have a gold-filled locket with this maker’s mark. The red stone bird’s eye may be a ruby. The crystal-like stones are not diamonds. The inside has facing photo areas with round frames. A local jeweler appraised this at about $125. Can you identify the maker?

A: This mark was used by Bliss Brothers Co. of Attleboro, Massachusetts. The company opened in 1873 as Bliss Brothers & Everett. It was founded by Charles Edwin Bliss, Everett Bradford Bliss, and R.L.F. Everett. According to an 1883 history of the county, Bliss Brothers & Everett “made a general variety of ladies’ and gents’ gold-plated goods.” The company became Bliss Brothers Co. sometime after 1887. Compacts, pill boxes, and other small items, including gold-filled and sterling jewelry, were made.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

KTF

This capital T with K and F on either side was used after 1925 by one of the largest U.S. makers of costume jewelry. The company was known for its elegant designs and high-quality jewelry. Gustavo Trifari and his uncle founded the company in 1910 in New York City. After Leo Krussman and Carl Fishel joined the firm, the name of the company became Trifari, Krussman and Fishel. They were known as the “Rhinestone Kings.” The Trifari family was involved in the business until 1975, when it was bought by Hallmark. In 2000, after several other changes in ownership, Trifari was sold to Liz Claiborne.

Get This For Your Valentine

If you find a piece of jewelry with this mark, you can tell it was made around the turn of the century. This mark was used by Goldsmith & Frank, c.1896, and its successor, Ingomar Goldsmith & Company, c.1904-c.1922. The company made costume jewelry set with imitation and precious stones.